Hell’s Kitchen, Gordon Ramsay, and the Journey to London
Whether or not you know how to cook depends on whose kitchen you’re in; when that kitchen belongs to Gordon Ramsay, well, it’s likely you don’t know how to cook. The world-renowned culinary god is as famous for his heavenly food preparations as he is infamous for his brutal honesty and curse-strewn critiques of his would-be protégés. But this doesn’t stop 16 “chefs” from trying to earn his respect on Fox TV’s wildly popular Hell’s Kitchen. Ranging in ability from fine dining trained to home-ec teacher, cast members are put through a grueling series of dinner services, competitions and eliminations before one comes out on top. The prize: $250,000 and the role of executive chef at Ramsay’s new restaurant at London’s The Savoy Hotel. This season, Boston toques Jason (“Jay”) Santos and Benjamin Knack take on Hell’s Kitchen. As of this writing, they’re each one of four finalists, and this month we got them to dish about their “Hell”-ish experience.
On Their Culinary Styles and Joining the Show
When it comes to cooking, how would you describe your signature style?
Knack: Simple. Fresh. Delicate. It is French food, French technique.
Santos: Very eclectic. I like to do things that people know, understand and appreciate, and then throw a really crazy, modern twist on it. I don’t by any means think I am the best chef in Boston, but I definitely think I am one of the most creative. I go through 250 liters of liquid nitrogen a week in my kitchen. I do a lot of funky stuff.
What made you decide to do Hell’s Kitchen?
Knack: Gordon has always been an idol of mine. He’s worked at all the restaurants that I’ve always wanted to work at … for Marco Pier White, for Pierre Koffman, for Joël Robuchon. His style is like a true French style. He’s one of the first to be such a high-profile chef of French food and not be French. I had an opportunity to try out for the show, and I thought, you know, I can do this. So why not go for it? Santos: One, I love Gordon Ramsay, always have. I thought the show was awesome. Two, I wanted a national platform, so I figured if I can make the show I would be able to preach what I do. I just need someone to open the door, and I can take it from there.
Working with Gordon Ramsay and Lessons Learned
What’s it like working with Gordon Ramsay?
Knack: The first time he screamed and yelled at me, I was like “Oh my gosh, Gordon Ramsay is yelling at me!” I loved it. He’s extremely passionate, and has amazing technique. He takes certain people under his wing and shares his techniques with them. Working with him was so awesome. He is a very genuine person.
Santos: Oh my god, it was horrible. It sucked, but as an overall experience, it was amazing. Working for Gordon, specifically, was great. He owns 22 restaurants, and I am sure some of his cooks have never even met him. I got to work with him every single day. So, it was pretty amazing to be a part of that.
Did you have an I-just-ruined-my-career-on-national-television moment?
Knack: No. I made mistakes, everybody made mistakes, but I think I did a very good job.
Santos: No. I don’t think anybody did. There’s nothing I foresee that was detrimental, but let’s wait until after the show is over. I’m watching it for the first time as well; I haven’t seen the edited version.
What is one thing you learned on Hell’s Kitchen?
Knack: I learned to appreciate the little things. You lose a challenge and you go on these punishments, and usually the punishments were the jobs of other people. You have to be a wine guy and bring all these cases in, or you have to go clean a river. I learned to appreciate what our delivery guys do, what our wine guys do. They work really hard.
Santos: Gordon’s standards are, well, they’re almost unattainable, hence the show. But, he’s really consistent. Gordon was the one thing on the show that was real. He would get [angry] at the cameras [when] they would make us stop, because he’s like “I’m running a kitchen!” Gordon’s standards are where they are, and he is the success that he is, because he doesn’t settle for less. So, that’s what I learned—never sacrifice anything.
The Impact of the Show on Their Boston Kitchens
Has Hell’s Kitchen affected your own kitchen back here in Boston?
Knack: Yes. I’ve always been high on standards and high on expectations, but once again, working with Gordon, he’s always been extreme on his standards for perfection. I have carried that through also. Santos: Gordon’s food is very simple, whereas my food is not, so there are some [of my] dishes that I would rethink and simplify a bit. Sometimes less is more.
Is the Hell’s Kitchen simulation as rough as your kitchens at Sel de la Terre and Gargoyles? Knack: Yeah, but it depends on who it’s rough for. Usually, [the cooks] will get thrown out of [their] stations first, and then they get thrown out of [my] kitchen. There’s screaming, there’s slamming, there’s throwing. It’s a high-pressure job, and we take it extremely seriously.
Santos: It’s a TV show. It was probably the hardest thing I’ve ever done in my life. I think it’s genius. I appreciated it. But it was terrible.
Working Together and Looking Ahead
Was it nice to work with somebody from Boston?
Knack: Absolutely. Being able to talk to Jay got me through some of the craziness every day. We’d sit and have a cup of coffee and talk about restaurants and other chefs in Boston. For 45 minutes every day, we had a little sanity. I think it definitely helped both of us, just to think about home for a little bit.
Santos: We were really good friends on the show. It was kind of weird to be there and have someone know you.
Of the 16 contestants, who was your stiffest competition?
Knack: I would have to say that Jason is my toughest competition, and that’s kind of unique because he’s the polar opposite of me. I’m about technique and simplicity, and he’s about things floating on a plate and making an apple taste like a chicken.
Santos: Ben is, technically, a better cook, but I’m not sure he was my stiffest competition. Frankly, he was kind of boring. I was more worried about people like Salvatore who owns a pizza place and sort of only knows what he knows, but is charismatic and funny. So, it depends. As far as cooking, Ben. As far as everything else, there were some funny people with crazy personalities.
Any plans to move to London in the next year?
Knack: Maybe, you never know.
Santos: I can’t confirm or deny that at this point.
WHERE TO EAT
Sel de la Terre, 255 State St., 617.720.1300
Gargoyles on the Square, 219 Elm St., Somerville, 617.776.5300
